NEW ARRIVALS: Engineered Garments

I believe we are mostly born with a certain taste. We like the things we like, and although we add and take away from each side of the 'like' and 'dislike' piles throughout our lives, there is a core sensibility that is always with us. Daiki Suzuki, designer (or engineer) of Engineered Garments, has always loved functional, oldschool outdoor gear. This love can be spotted everywhere, specifically in his frequent and faithful use of the noblest fiber: Wool. His men's and women's lines both point strongly to a northwest aesthetic without looking like a lumberjack cliché.

above: corduroy suit / below: elbow patch sweatshirt and reversible wool raincoat

While many things these days feel like they're groping around for heritage and authenticity, Suzuki makes masterful replicas with his own genius twist. Plus, wool is absolutely the state fiber, and works well in our kind of all-day, light autumn rains. --or maybe the state fiber is 'beard'?

above: bias plaid shirt / below: twill jacket and trousers, and wool jacket

And for Women: FWK

above: shawl collar sweater and wool vest  

below: two tone long vest, hats, and corduroy jacket

above: flannel hunting dress and cotton shirts

UGLY/BEAUTIFUL

Last month when I was in Milan on my buy, I was approached by a lovely woman who greeted me and made a reference to my likeness to John Malkovich. She stated this in English, then went on to say some sort of phrase in Italian. I asked her what she said, and she translated the Italian expression as "ugly beautiful" Wow! The song "Chelsea Hotel" by Leonard Cohen went straight to my brain!

"I remember you well in the Chelsea Hotel 

you were famous, your heart was a legend. 

You told me again you preferred handsome men 

but for me you would make an exception. 

And clenching your fist for the ones like us 

who are oppressed by the figures of beauty, 

you fixed yourself, you said, "Well never mind, 

we are ugly but we have the music."

Yes, my dears, Leonard and Janice, you are so right. My beautiful uglies.

Love, John

NEW ARRIVALS: Save Khaki United

How can something based on unoriginality be so perfect? Because we all need comfort. We all need basics. We all need vanilla. The brilliance behind S.K.U. Is totally straightforward: Americana inspired basics utilizing mills and factories all over the USA, made with honesty and no damn frills. 

NEW ARRIVALS: Sacai Luck

 

Sacai Luck In VOGUE's August Issue

Sarah Mower's article in this month's VOGUE thoughtfully tells the story of designer Chitose Abe's awakening as a knitter, designer, and mother. It is required reading. There will be a test.

DEAR Robin,

Robin Williams and his lovely partner Susan visited our store prior to his heart attack a while back. When he walked in he was immediately engaging and truly interested in what we were about. Of course, knowing who he was I became quite nervous, but he asked for a tour of the space, and I showed him around. When we got to our bathroom (all white), with a picture of the "white" album in it, I told him the room was dedicated to that Beatles album, and he loved it.

Then, he saw my photo of Bob Dylan on the wall and did an amazing Dylan imitation! We talked about Dylan to great lengths (he met him) and by that time I had become so relaxed with him. He ended up purchasing the coolest clothing in the store, and while shopping he fell in love with a coat that I did not have in his size, so while leaving he gave me his personal email and home address. I searched high and low for that coat, and finally had it sent from Italy to him. Upon receiving the coat he was so gracious and Thankful.

When he became ill I sent him an email saying that I was rooting for him. He responded with a thank you.

Robin, I thank you for your kindness towards me. -Love, John

IN THE WINDOW: Celebrating Sofie

It's no secret that Sofie D'Hoore is one of our favorite designers for women. She just gets it.

We can use terms like “architectural,” and “minimal” when talking of clothes like D'hoore's, but those words seem to miss the grace and direct approach of Sofie's work. Maybe sometimes simplicity is the same as minimalism, and cleanliness can lead to modernism, but her kind of clean and simple comes from necessity and everyday use.

The line feels like a collection of the best essentials, pared down to their most practical, wholesome elements, with all ones' needs provided for. On the scale of precious to severe, D'Hoore falls somewhere in the middle; straight forward, unadorned, and honed. Perhaps it was the dental training that gave D'hoore her eye for clean detail?